Datsha
There are many things to love about young prodigy/superstar Alexia Duchêne — not least of all her age (only 24!); her talented cooking style x humble culinary concept (in her own words: “Cooking is a question of sensitivity, of touching people and I don't think that we need technique for that..” Really?! Really.. ??); the fact that she’s half English, half French; and now — that she’s launched her very own, brand-spanking new restaurant Datsha — a beautiful gem in none other than the Marais.
To boot: she’s also clearly a saint, wise beyond her years — and, evidently, has cultivated more patience, grace, and presence of mind from her few years on Earth than most of us have amassed in our entire lifetimes.
Why do I say this? Because: Datsha ended up opening several days later than expected*, no thanks to the six-week strike in Paris (Alexia — we feel your pain!) — and she didn’t even break a sweat (apparently — *click zen IG post as proof).
All that is water under the bridge now though — the strikes in Paris are winding down (thank goodness!), the new year is well and truly up & running, and… the doors of Datsha are finally open — so onwards and upwards — and welcome all to a fresh decade. Hurrah 2020.
© Photo by Eileen W. Cho
So let’s turn the page. What do we know about Alexia and why do you need to know about Datsha/go/eat there?
Well — in the interests of keeping this Prêt a (relatively) short format, we’ll stick to the bare basics and leave the rest to your own powers of discovery, Google and general curiosity — but this is a start:
She first got on the international radar via the Top Chef reality cooking program (season 10) — gracing the screen as one of the youngest candidates to participate in the show, and quickly rose through the ranks of the competition, asserting herself as a formidable competitor in the face of some serious adversity and against various other very skilled contestants, wowing not only the judges and the culinary community, but also audiences far & wide.
By the time the quarter-finals came around she was only woman still in the running for Top Chef 2019, and qualified first in the semi-finals by successively winning the test of Romain Meder at the Plaza Athénée and the test of the gastronomic vegetable dish — courtesy of none other than the venerable Alain Ducasse.
She failed to qualify in the final, but — who really cares — because the rest of her CV reads like this:
Selected as one of “The 6 hottest restaurants to try in Paris this January” by Vogue.fr; was second chef at Passerini (an alum of Italian maestro Giovanni Passerini no less!), ran the kitchen for a season at Fulgurances wine bar <En Face> ; and, notably, she’s also worked at Fera at Claridge's, Frenchie Covent Garden in London and Taillevent, in Paris.
Of course, now she also inherited the reins of her very own restaurant — so, what do we know about that specifically?
Well, not much (sorry!) — @datsharestaurant — we DM’d you on IG; emailed you on contact@datshaunderground.com; and frantically texted all our our best culinary contacts in Paris to ask them for leads — BUT no reply yet (yes, we know you are all very busy & we get it, no love lost) and your website isn’t up yet + it seems your comms man/woman is somewhat of a secret agent.
*** So — please do hit us up if you have something further (menu, chef bio, a pack of food/venue/chef high-res images?! All welcome). Would LOVE to hear more (and/or visit to assist you in creating any of the above, if you need & the opportunity arises)! ***
© Photos by Eileen W. Cho
All that said, what we do know — through the grapevine and/or have managed to mash together from other media sources (sorry, we really did try to be original but it’s out of our hands & control!) — is this:
The Venue: Spread across two floors, and located in “an old mansion on rue des Gravillers in the 4th district, which we are transforming into a restaurant” — hence the name ‘Datsha’ which is Russian means country house (our Russian assistant told us that so we KNOW that’s right – see – we do do our homework when & if we can! ;)
The Reservations: Apparently you don’t need one (although the website says you do?), but it will be VERY hard to get a seat either way, because A) it’s brand-spanking new, opened just before Paris Couture Fashion Week (On now! Jan 20-23); B) is accessible only in the evening ; and C) it’s evidently AWESOME and delicious;
Bar Bonus: It will also have a cocktail bar in the basement;
Menu/Cuisine: It will offer small dishes to share; think: bar à tapas with assiettes à base de poisson et viande (that’s fish & meat, for the English speakers); and guests can book a tasting menu with “luxury products”, while on the ground floor;
The Chef: In Paris, Alexia’s favorite address is Rigmarole, near Oberkampf, she also really likes Clamato (in the 11eme); and in London, she’s partial to Lyle's and Bao, specialising in Asian steamed buns. So that gives you more idea of the kind of food she’ll be cooking up at Datsha — sold & sold!
Her Professional Inspiration: One of her mentors is Harry Cummins, who runs La Mercerie in Marseille.
The Décor: Don’t know, because we haven’t been yet — but the website design is beautiful from what we can see, so that bodes well!
© Photo by Eileen W. Cho
Plus.. (and not that this should make any difference at all to her trade and/or your decision to go to Datsha) but — Alexia has also been fairly vocal about the links between cooking and sexism, in personal and professional lives since her time at Top Chef (and before) and has publicly testified to gender-based and even sexual violence in some kitchens, saying that she experienced “some not cool things in the kitchen", and would like to "to represent youth and women in this profession" to “encourage women to show them that it is possible" — alluding to the fact that sexism and misogyny of men in this profession particularly is still far too ingrained, and that “at some point, it has to stop" — watch her interview with Melty and read more about that via The Huffington post here.
© Photo by Marie Etchegoyen/M6
More of this in her own words (translated from French):
“The current generation must become aware of the realities of the profession, because it is a reality, and there are leaders out there who want to change that. There are guys in the kitchen who say things and don't even realise it's not correct. They can say stupid things like “ watch the waitress's ass ”. I explain to them that it makes me uncomfortable and that it is disrespectful. In no case do I want to let this go. Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer people who want to cook because of this. Speech is the solution, testimonies are needed, so that the leaders who were untouchable no longer are.”
Alexia — we couldn’t agree more.
All these things get out vote — so, congrats to you on your many achievements and on the opening of Datsha — we hope to hear more and visit there soon!
For the rest of you — here are the deets, so that can get in on it:
Perfect for: Paris Fashion Week tapas, in the evenings, post-shows — YES PLEASE! (Because: We are all tired and hungry after traipsing around all day in *heels (*or stylish flats, because we are not all insane!).
What to order: If the hype about the “luxury tasting plate”* is true, have that! *Seasonal tasting platter: 80€ per person. Plus, WINE, because — obviously — as per above, Alexia has previously worked at Fulgurances bar à vin <En Face>, which we LOVE, so we know she knows good vino.
Address: 57 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 (Google Maps)
Trading hours: Monday-Sunday // 7pm-11pm
Insta: @datsharestaurant / @alexiaduchene
Website: datshaunderground.com // Images via: eileenwcho.com
